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Ascheri Barbera D' Alba Fontanelle 2009
Ask for the Ascheri I’ll take a nice Tuscan wine any day, but, I’m always a little extra thrilled when a customer kicks the Chianti habit, heads north and embraces Barbera (and other vinous prizes from Piedmont). Though modern Barbera can notably produce concentrated, massive, oaky wines, I prefer the no-fuss, stuffed just enough, fresh and honest style. Giacomo Ascheri perfectly provides this with his single-vineyard Barbera d’Alba Vigna Fontanelle.
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Hook & Ladder 2008
Wine with a Hook: Quintessential Summer Red Owner-winemaker Cecil De Loach (original founder of De Loach vineyards) named this new project for his first career as a San Francisco fireman. Located in the Russian River Valley, this appellation offers vintners many blending opportunities. Hook & Ladder’s oldest vineyards thrive in the cooler section just west of Santa Rosa. Here the morning fog gently blankets Hook & Ladder’s 100-year old vines and allows the pre-prohibition grapes to ripen to full maturity. |
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Steinfeld Gruner Veltliner 2009
A Gru-Vee Kind of Love: Mindbending Summer Wine The wonderful blue Danube and the stony slopes that line its banks have been home to the Grüner Veltliner grape for more than 200 years. Today, the Veltliner is the most important grape variety of Austria. And this is not a coincidence! To paraphrase The Mindbenders: “When I’m feeling blue, all I have to do” is pour myself a glass Grüner Veltliner – how can one resist a wine with such a cool nickname: “Gru-Vee?" Now that the sun in NE has finally deigned to make an appearance, wine lovers are in search of a crisp, cool glass of dry white wine. Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio may quickly spring to mind, but methinks you should try something different & look for a Grüner Veltliner, the ultimate foodie’s food wine that complements the many different flavors of summer fare.
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Gessami 2010
Gessami's Coming to Dinner: Inspiring Spansih White Family-owned Cava producer, Gramona, produces this sensational unoaked, dry white wine. I am truly thankful for the handful of dry, Muscat-based wines making their way out of Spain and over to us. So, enter the crazy-great Gramona Gessami which combines Muscats with Sauvignon Blanc and the merest touch of Gewurztraminer. Check out the website which is offered in not just English, but, also, beautiful Catalan. www.gramona.com |
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Pelligrini Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2009
Russian River Valley Pioneers of Pinot Four generations on, Pellegrini Family Vineyards is distinct for being one of the earliest producers of fine Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Their purchase of such valuable Sonoma land holdings decades ago allows the Pellegrinis to produce a single-vineyard Pinot for which many others would easily charge twice the price. Furthermore, Olivet Lane was one of the first Russian River Valley vineyards to be dedicated solely to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (now acknowledged as the valley’s rock-star varietals). Seize this opportunity to taste what the famed Russian River Valley is all about – for a relative pittance!
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Kuentz Bas Alsace Blanc 2009
Is that Wine I Smell- or Summer in a Glass? What an introduction to northeastern French wine! The result of marriages between (shockingly) the Kuentz and Bas families in 1894 (the “s” in Bas is silent), KB is what Alsatian wine is all about - producing wines from virtually all of the cool-climate Alsatian white grape varietals, including from their organically farmed estate vineyards. A blend of grapes known respectively for aromatics and vibrancy (60% Sylvaner, 15% Muscat, 15% Auxerrois, 10% Chasselas), their entry-level Alsace blanc is as neat and intriguing as its constituent grapes. Rare are white wines that are this versatile! Enjoy summer-in-a-glass with salads, sushi, Asian fare, or sipped solamente on the porch.
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Beronia Rioja Reserva 2005
Hibernian or Iberian Rioja Another Winner from Beronia Founded in 1973, Beronia is a major bodega producing the highest quality Rioja wines. Its name comes from the history of the land on which it is located. The origin of the region we now know as La Rioja goes back to the 3rd century BC when it was inhabited by the “Berones”, a population of Celt warriors. Their first villages, Tricio, Varea and Leiva, set the boundaries of Beronia, today’s La Rioja.
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Clos de la Vierge 2009
That is so Gros Mansang Endangered varietals! Wine grapes on the verge of disappearing forever until some wine-loving souls commit themselves to saving, replanting and resurrecting the neglected, the shunned, the banished grapes. Apparently, thus it was with the grape Gros Manseng: a mere 58 hectares in 1958. Fortunately, this grape responsible for at least one outstanding dry Jurancon white, was re-adopted and by 2006, 2800 hectares existed. The Jurancon region in southwest France hosts a long wine history but it’s the future for wine enthusiasts seeking unoaked, dry, individual white wines. Over-Sauvignon Blanced? Over Pinot Grigio’d? Time to move to this marvelous dry white. |
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Chateau Cap De Merle 2009
Saint-Emilion Satellite What? Besides the famous red-robed wine brotherhood, Bordeaux’s famous Saint-Emilion appellation has its own satellite, too? Actually, Saint-Emilion claims four satellites—“satellite” appellations, including Lussac Saint-Emilion. As in Saint-Emilion, Merlot prevails in Lussac Saint-Emilion. Chateau Cap de Merle from Lussac Saint-Emilion demonstrates why the 2009 Bordeaux vintage revels in ravishing reviews, offering exceptional value for a keen right-bank red wine. Mostly Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
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Henri Perrusset Macon-Villages 2009
White Burgundy 101 We hold the white wines of France's Burgundy region in imminently high esteem. Even so, we get so used to the Macon sub-region's reputation for producing "value" Chardonnays that we can forget what exciting, refreshing wines the region can produce. Shame on us. 100% Chardonnay (as with 99% of Burgundy's whites), this absolutely lovable, charming wine hails from the "Macon-Villages". It is at once engaging, respectful and friendly, in a sense - yet also bold and confident in what it is: an exquisitely versatile wine. One of very few white Burgundies we'd recommend for sipping on its own as well as to pair with food. Vinified with indigenous yeasts and minimal sulfurs, importer Kermit Lynch describes the wine as “un-oaked, unfiltered, un-buttery.”: a spot-on description. Think you don't like Chardonnay? Think again. Or, already like Chardonnay? You'll love us for unearthing this treasure. This is classic - white Burgundy 101. Now, study up.
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Villa Ponciago Fleurie 2009
A Beaujolais to Put Away In our last wine guide we featured a delicious Beaujolais from the region's stellar 2009 vintage. This month, we're honing in on one of the region's 13 villages - Fleurie, to be exact. Where our last Beaujolais feature was a lighthearted, fruity number, it's now time to turn to Beaujolais' serious side - for this a serious wine. The source property of this wine has a history dating back over 1,000 years - the majority of which was spent in the stewardship of the famed Benedictine Cluny Abbey. In fact, this wine simply oozes respect for tradition - right down to grapes crushed by foot (fear not, for all is purified through sweet, beautiful fermentation!). Each of the four vineyard parcels whence this wine is sourced contributes its own characteristic: from fruit, to body, to tannins, to finesse. The result is a beautifully traditional, deep, dark, complex wine which really deserves to be paired with a fine meal to be fully appreciated - please see food suggestions. In fact, though certainly enjoyable now, we also recommend cellaring some bottles for 2-5 years (or more, if you're patient and curious!) so that you can explore how a well-made Beaujolais can age. Not many Beaujolais at this affordable price point earn this distinction. |
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San Polo Rubio 2008
By Jove, Superior Sangiovese Review: Some of you may recall that, several years ago, we had a contest on the translation of the word “Sangiovese”. In any event, it’s pretty interesting, from the Latin phrase: Sanguis Jovis, meaning the “Blood of Jove”. My favorite characteristic of this grape is its high acidity level. You take a sip & automatically it cries out “feed me” – it’s the ultimate food wine – because of the high acid level, it rarely gets flat or boring, always with a bracing zing to it.
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Bouchard Aîné & Fils Bourgogne Rouge 2009
When I Was Young As Eric Burden & the Animals might say, when I was young (circa 1967), I used to love picking up an inexpensive Bourgogne rouge to pair with a roasted chicken. My young bride & I thought that was the height of epicurean sophistication. I’ve watched, in some dismay, as the price of this everyday, but high quality wine has escalated while the caliber of the wine steadily declined. HOWEVER, this wine single-handedly reverses a sad trend – just think, you can actually buy a French Burgundy for $11.99 from one of the oldest and most prestigious negociants in Burgundy – BUY it & BUY lots of it – you will not regret it.
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Saint Cosme Cotes Du Rhone Blanc 2009
Saint Cosme Over A very promising 2011 wine-wise if one of the very first wines I tasted this new year portends future vinous pleasure. Saint Cosme property, located near the town of Gigondas in the southern Rhone Valley, was formerly a Gallo-Roman villa (and who knows what before that). The property enjoys something like 14 generations of ownership by the family that today bears the name Barruol. Owner/winemaker Louis Barruol enjoys an emerging reputation as one of the Rhone’s finest wine producers. This fabulous Cotes du Rhone blanc fully supports such a contention. Considering that approximately only 2% of Cotes du Rhones produced are white (blanc), I feel even more fortunate to offer this extraordinary example of one (of the fewer). |
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Quattro Mani [Toh Kai] 2009
Wild Wild Wine Made in Slovenia from organically farmed grapes. Not wild enough? Made at a winery with vineyards in both Italy and Slovenia. Really wild? Made from a legal grape varietal using its now “illegal” name. In vino violation! The producer cleverly labels this white [Toh kai] a phonetic spelling of the grape formerly called “Tocai” (now dubbed Friulano by Italians). The wine version of Monty Python’s Knights of Ni (sp.), perhaps.
What’s really wild about it is how crazy wonderful it tastes and how wildly low priced it is for its superior quality. |
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